As a seasonal worker here on San Juan Island, I often get asked if there’s anything to do here, besides whale watching or kayaking in our surrounding waters. Some visitors are surprised to learn that, despite being a small island tucked in far northwestern Washington, we have an abundance of land-based activities to occupy your time. Some of the best views I’ve seen in my life have been on this very island, overlooking cedar forests or stretching shorelines, distant mountain ranges and rolling, grassy hills. The best place on the island, in my opinion, is the south end.
If you follow Mullis Street from downtown it quickly turns into Cattle Point Road and winds its way into a lush forest. When you pop out the other side, you’re struck by a crystal-clear view of the entirety of Mount Baker, as well as Griffin Bay and the Strait of Juan de Fuca, all surrounding serene, wind-blown, grassy hills that cling to every last bit of sunshine. It’s heaven on Earth, presented in a quiet and modest island, and makes you wonder how this landscape is not yet swarming with tourists and selfie-takers like other remarkable views seem to be. At this point, it becomes hard not to fall in love with this island.
The first turnout you’ll find is for American Camp. Take the turnout and you’ll find yourself at a small parking lot with an interpretive center/gift shop. Heading down the well-marked trail, you’ll soon see the signature white buildings of the historic American Camp, which was occupied by the American military for 14 years before San Juan Island officially became American territory. From this trail, you’ll find yourself in an intricate web of packed-down footpaths, leading up hills, around corners, through blackberry bushes, and all up and down the shoreline. You may get lost winding your way through these trails, but when you gaze upon the strikingly close Olympic Mountains, or the stories-tall boulders breaking up sandy cove after sandy cove, or the black-tailed deer and red foxes flitting about the tall grass, you won’t mind being lost one little bit.
The more you wander, the more paths will keep popping up in front of you, each one seeming to lead to the ocean. You could spend hours here and still not take every path, each with a new and equally stunning view. You’ll fill your camera with pictures of majestic vistas, wild roses, and sea- and shore-birds alike. You may even consider buying that little white house that you passed on the way down, dreaming up all of the evenings that you could spend here, just taking it all in.
If you’re feeling ambitious, you may walk all the way down to South Beach (or, perhaps you went back to the car and have motored down here instead). Come back here at dusk for a bonfire picnic and the most spectacular sunset on the island.
If you continue down this picturesque road, you’ll find yourself at Cattle Point Lighthouse, which is remarkably underrated and often overshadowed by the well-known Lime Kiln Lighthouse further north. From here you’ll have both beach and cliffside access, making for some spectacular views and equally as spectacular tidepooling.
By now you’ve probably wandered your way through the entire day, and are ready to settle in to a glass of wine and a hearty meal. If I can make one last suggestion, on how to end your perfect day, please hit up Mike’s Wine Bar. If anything goes well with a day of exploring and sunshine, it’s red wine from Mike’s own vineyard paired with the best cheese platter you’ll ever have. As you head home, you’ll be planning your next trip with extra time just to enjoy everything that this island has to offer!
